Join Tracy Higley as she explores the Amphitheater, Library of Celsus, Temple of Artemis and other archeological sites in Ephesus, Turkey.
The amazingly-intact ancient city of Ephesus is the setting for So Shines the Night. Follow Tracy’s travels and research through the scenes of this novel, to see the streets, agora, and shops where the story of Daria and Lucas unfolds.
Main Street of Ephesus
We begin at the upper part of the city. From here, I am looking down one of the main streets, known in ancient times as the Embolos (or “wedge”) because of the way it cut across the city. [You will often see this street referred to as “Curetes Street” – the name given to it later by archaeologists, named for the priests, or curetes, who used the street as a Processional Way to the Temple of Artemis.]
Terracotta Piping in Ephesus
Ancient plumbing! This is a stack of terracotta pipes found in the city, how they got their water from aqueducts through to fountains and houses. The pipes are stacked in the state agora, at the top of the city.
Ichthys
Very cool! One of many such stones unearthed in Ephesus with the Christian symbol. The letters are the Greek letters for “fish” but also form an acronym for “Jesus Christ, God’s Son, Savior.” The wheel is formed by placing all the Greek letters on top of each other. These symbols were used to mark Christian meeting places and as a “signal” to fellow believers during times of persecution.
Exploring Ephesus
Passageway behind the official meeting house at the top of the city.
State Meeting House
The official political meeting house of the city, known as the Odeon. It would have had a roof in ancient times. In So Shines the Night, this is the setting of the trial.
Heading Down
Still at the top of the city, outside the meeting house, and heading down toward the center of the city.
Fun Discovery
I’ve used (and loved) the Zondervan Archaeological Bible for years. It was fun to realize that this was the spot where the front cover’s picture was taken (see the next picture), and to put myself in it!
Same Shot, Without Me!
Here’s the cover of the Archaeological Bible. By the way, I highly recommend this Bible for history-lovers!
State Agora
Looking across the State Agora to the hills beyond.
Covered Colonnade in Ephesus
We are still headed down the Embolos, walking on what would have been a roofed colonnade running like a sidewalk down the street. To our left would have been all the shops, and the columns mark the start of the public street.
Street Side Shops
More street-side shops, on the other side now. You can see the city is very crowded today! Even though the crowds were daunting at times, I liked the realistic feeling it gave me, being in a city that seemed alive. I could easily imagine the crowds traveling back and forth to the Temple!
Hanging Out
Just a silly photo for all you cat lovers. There are always stray cats in these ancient ruins (and sometimes dogs). This one is hanging out on a column at the edge of the sidewalk shops.
Getting Closer to the Terrace Houses
We’re still descending the Embolos, and in the distance you can see the roofs that have been erected to protect the active digsite on this hillside. The first time I visited Ephesus (in 2007), you couldn’t get a glimpse of what was going on in there. I was thrilled to hear on this visit that for an extra fee, we could get inside! These are the hillside estates on which I based the plan of Lucas’s house.
Mosaic Sidewalk
Beautiful mosaic sidewalk, still so intact after nearly 2000 years! This sidewalk is along the Embolos, closer to the Terrace Houses.
Peeking Into a Shop
Just a little glimpse into a street-side shop. You can see the mosaic walk in the front.
Temple of Hadrian
The arch you see in this picture is the front of the Temple of Hadrian, built around 130 AD and dedicated to the Emperor Hadrian. Since this time period was after the setting of So Shines the Night, you won’t find this temple in the book, but it’s a beautiful structure.
Temple Again
Another view of the Temple of Hadrian.
Wheel Rut
Every time I’m in an ancient city, I’m always fascinated by these chariot wheel ruts in the streets. I don’t know why. For some reason, they make the people who lived here so real to me!
The Latrine
Just too fascinating to skip! The public latrine, where men lined up when nature called. Piping runs underneath the “seats” to carry away the sewage.
Bathroom Reading
I know, but I just couldn’t resist. (This was the cover of So Shines the Night, at the time of this trip.)
Library of Celsus
The first good shot of the Library of Celsus at the bottom of the Embolos. Again, this structure had not been built yet when So Shines the Night takes place. But it’s one of the most recognizable ruins of the ancient world.
Heading into the Terrace Houses
We’re in the roofed digsite now, ready to see what Lucas’s house would have looked like!
Terrace Houses
It’s unbelievable, how much they’ve uncovered on this hillside. Below me is just a glimpse of the walls and floors and other structures. These houses were built as adjoining, with the terrace of one sometimes forming the roof of another down the hillside.
Terrace Houses
You can get an idea of the size of these houses by the columns that would have been inside.
Looking for a Job?
Check out all the fragments of finds, being sorted in this digsite!
Frescoes in Upper Level
These frescoes would have been located on the second floor of one of the houses.
More Terrace Houses
More of the Terrace Houses behind me.
Beautiful Frescoes
Ancient wallpaper. These folks loved their painted walls!
Mosaic Floor
Intact mosaic floor. Lovely.
Hard at Work
There was lots of restoration going on, besides the archaeological work.
Lucas’s Sitting Room?
This small room could have been something like Lucas’s private sitting room.
From a Second Floor
Can you picture Lucas’s courtyard below?
The Marble Way
Outside the Terrace Houses, looking down through the other side of the city now, toward the amphitheater in the distance.
More Mosaics
I just love these houses.
The Famous Library of Celsus in Ephesus
This structure was built in 135 AD in honor of a Roman Senator Celsus. It was built to hold 12,000 scrolls and to be Celsus’s tomb.
Photo Opp
My husband and myself in front of the Library.
One More
It’s just too perfect a spot, we keep taking pictures!
City Arch
On the move through the city again.
The Gate of Mazeus and Mythridates
These are the gates outside the commercial (harbor) agora, where Daria asks directions of the old men sitting there.
Sitting in the Gate
Sitting in the gate myself.
Library
Standing alongside the gates, one last shot.
Arch
Upper shot of the arch of one of the gates. I love photos like these.
The Harbor Agora in Ephesus
Looking back on the gates in the distance, this is what is left of the harbor agora. Can you spot anything fun in this picture? (hint: it’s sitting at the base of one of the columns).
First Look
First look at the famed amphitheater, rising up the hillside at the back of this shot.
Square Outside the Theater
This paved area just outside the steps into the theater was the setting in So Shines the Night of the scroll-burning.
From the Theater
Standing in front of the theater, you can gaze down the Agora Street toward the Terrace Houses at the end of the street.
Looking Down the Harbor Street in Ephesus
From the theater steps again, looking down the Harbor Street this time. There would have been shops on either side, the harbor agora to the left, and at the end of the street, the harbor itself. Somewhere along this street was the prison where Paul was kept several times. In ancient times the Cayser River brought so much silt to the harbor that it became defunct, and people left the city.
Inside the Theater
At last, we’ve made our way into the famous theater and climbed to the highest leve open (though there are higher levels fenced off). Here is where the townspeople nearly started a riot, shouting “Great is Artemis of the Ephesians” while Paul’s friends kept him outside, fearing for his life. So amazing to be sitting in the very place where it happened, knowing I’m walking the same streets as Paul did.
In the Audience
Sitting in the theater. Loving it!
Theater
The base of the theater, which would have been used for musical performances and dramatic events. Behind the semi-circular stage you’ll see a series of columns. These would have been part of the two-story facade that was used as a backdrop.
This Place is Huge!
From this perspective it’s easier to see just how vast this theater is. It would have seated over 20,000 people.
From the Theater Steps
Looking down the Harbor Street ahead, the Agora Street to the left, and the square in front where the scene of the scroll-burning takes place.
Theater Tunnel
One of the underground tunnels beneath the theater, where scenes from the ending of So Shines the Night take place.
Theater Entrance
Entrance into the theater at one level (with the cat!), and to the right, the doorway into the lower levels beneath the theater, where scenes at the end of So Shines the Night take place.
Outside of the Theater
If Daria could do it, why can’t I?! This is the outer wall of the theater, across from the agora. The two-story theater backdrop facade would have risen above this wall.
Romans?
Some sort of exhibition, I think it was supposed to be Cleopatra and Mark Antony. They are heading off into the hills, I guess.
Theater From the Lower End of the City
Moving out of the lower part of the city, here’s a shot of the theater. You can see why it would have been the center of city life!
Going Exploring in Ephesus
We walk out of the lower end of the city, and I know from my last visit that the Temple of Artemis should be near enough to walk to. But during my last visit, I took a cab from the upper end of the city. Since I don’t have the best sense of direction, it was brave of my husband to trust me to lead him there!
Temple Column
We found it! This is all that’s left of the Temple of Artemis, besides some scattered stones.
Temple Stones
The temple location was huge, and here are some scattered stones that are left. Most of the stones were taken and used in other nearby structures during the Middle Ages.
Interesting
All the action in Acts 19 started with the Silversmith Guild getting angry over the damage done by Paul to their business, since the sales of their shrines of Artemis were declining in the wake of the gospel. Here is all that is left of their business. A small table with a few figurines of Artemis.
Kusadasi
The city of Ephesus is reached from the port of Kusadasi. Here’s a little bazaar in the port.
Relaxing In Port of Ephesus
Looking out over the sea after a lovely day.
The End of a Great Day
Back in port, ready to board our great big boat. A great day in Ephesus!
